Sunday, July 26, 2009 – Day 2

**NOTE: NAMES HAVE BEEN CHANGED**

First full day in Cambodia and I woke up at 6 AM after 5 hours of sleep to chirping birds. It reminded me of middle school and high school when I would wake up to my parakeets screeching at each other on weekend mornings when I wanted to sleep in. So after laying in bed for a bit, I finally decided to get up and got on the internet via an Ethernet cord, a la college style.

I talk with Buddha for a bit and he takes me for a ride on his moto – I put on a helmet and it feels awkward. He showed me the WHO office, where I am interning for a month, and the grocery store, Lucky Market. The WHO office is very close – maybe a 7-minute walk from the house. At Lucky, I asked the clerks where eggs and hangers were. They don’t understand me. I was shocked that the price of everything is similar to what I pay in DC, and forked over $5 for a box of cereal. Everything is imported from the US – limited selections and inflated prices. I later find out this place caters to foreigners.

After eating my lunch of Asian bakery buns, I hop out for the Mekong River Restaurant, by the riverfront area to catch the 11 AM showing of Pol Pot’s regime movie. I can’t believe it’s only 11 – there’s so much that can be done in a day if only I could wake up earlier. The tuk-tuk driver (guy drives a mini rickshaw powered by gas?) takes me there but obviously is not sure where it is because I find the restaurant and he circles around and around to find it. I find that these drivers don’t know where anything is and just charge whatever price they feel they can get you. I’m overcharged by 500 riels at $2. I sit down because the movie starts in 10 minutes and get a mango shake for $1.75. I tip the rest of the $2. It was sugar water with some mango. A little boy comes up to me hawking books about Pol Pot and I shake my head no. He pats his stomach and makes a sign that he wants to put food in his mouth. He says “I’m hungry miss. I want some food.” It’s very hard for me to resist so I try not to look at him. I hear stories about this from friends in India – where children cling to you begging for money. I pray that this doesn’t happen here b/c I wouldn't have money to get home. Finally, the guy motions for me to go to the “theater” which is a dark room above the restaurant, entered via a steep narrow staircase. My eyes are not adjusted and fumble around for a seat. After 5 seconds, I realize I almost sat on the man sitting 2 seats down from me. The entire “theater” of this room is just filled with me and this guy. The movie begins with a history of Cambodia, 30 seconds about the genocide, and ends with the 1991 peace accord made in Paris. Cambodia has been occupied by the Chinese and French. Salazar (nom de guerre Pol Pot), through his relations with China (especially Mao Zedong and Zhao Enlai) of the Communist Party, decides to bring a cultural revolution to Cambodia. His radicalism ends with a purge of Phnom Penh’s population, sending them to the countryside to do menial labor. Many die and end up in the Tuol Sleng execution chamber (formerly a school) and then in the Killing Fields, which remain open to visitors today. The movie focused on the Prince of Cambodia and the Prime Minister, who both blamed Nixon and Kissinger’s politics for the fate of Cambodia, which tried to remain neutral in the Vietnamese War conflict. The movie credits roll and the sponsors of the movie are the Prince and PM… no wonder there was nothing negative said about them in the movie.

I wander down to visit the Royal Palace and am greeted everywhere with a “hello miss,” “tuk-tuk?”, "moto?", or a hand wave. Everyone just chills around asking if people need rides. At first I say no and shake my head but now I ignore it. There’s just too many people asking and it gets very annoying after awhile. I pass by a spa and decide to get my first mani-pedi in over 4 years for $10 + $1 tip. There are 2 Khmer women waiting on my feet and hands. They don’t speak English too well but they are diligent. After this session, I leave with a nail scratched. I walk to the Royal Palace and find that my stomach is growling and I check the guidebook for a place to eat. It recommends a Thai restaurant, Chiang Mai, by the Riverfront. 2 nails are now badly smeared. I walk back and the restaurant is next to the U and Me Spa I had my mani/pedi. I stop back in and get a touch-up. The front desk receptionist makes small talk in English and begins to ask private questions about my life in America and here. I get uncomfortable when she asks where I am staying, who I am with, did I come alone… etc. I keep thinking “what if she uses this information to give to someone else to stalk me and sell me into some slavery or worse, prostitution, which could be quite possible here. My housemate works for an anti-human trafficking NGO here. Luckily, the man who came for a massage needs to pay and I excuse myself politely. I go next door and sit down for “pat thai” as it was spelled on the menu and a can of Coke. I drink water but now will be forced to drink other things because the water is not safe to drink here. I even was cautious about brushing my teeth, making sure to gargle my mouth with purified cooler water after I had rinsed with sink water.

The pat thai was not good at all but it was only $3.50. The can of Coke was $1.25. I was overcharged for the can of Coke >2 times. It should be $0.50 max. But I didn’t see the Coke on the menu, so can’t contest the price. I pay 200 riels in tip because the Coke was so expensive. Tipping is not expected but nice if given.

I walk to the National Museum and pay $3 to enter. I take some pics and see relics from as far back as the BC era. A LOT of statues of Ganesh and Vishnu. Buddhism and Hinduism are so prevalent here. Monks are sitting in the courtyard, flanked by ponds with golden carps and lotus leaves, chatting with foreigners. I leave and make my way to the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. The fee is $6.25 and I am stopped at the gate because my shorts were slightly above the knees. I obtain a refund and it begins to pour. My first rain in the monsoon season of Cambodia – which goes from May – October. Not too bad though because it stops raining after 15 minutes and I walk home, seeing the Cambodia-Vietnam Memorial, Independence Monument, and Wat Lanka (a temple near my house). And of course, “tuk-tuk?” was heard all the way home.

I meet Belle, my housemate who has been here since the beginning of June working for the NGO to stop anti-trafficking. She is a Harvard law student and is very friendly. Training for the NYC marathon too.